Kai Kai

This week, I want to talk about Kai Kai (https://www.instagram.com/kaikai.bbq/), Jerry and Jackie Lau’s stall that serves up Cantonese barbecued meats, as beautiful as they are delicious.  Kai Kai is located inside Mills Market, the new Asian food hall on East Colonial Drive between Mills and Thornton Avenues in Mills 50, arguably Orlando’s best foodie neighborhood.  Last week’s review recipient UniGirl is one of Kai Kai’s neighboring stalls inside Mills Market, and so is former favorite Banh Mi Boy, that Vietnamese sandwich stall sandwiched between UniGirl and Kai Kai.
Before Mills Market opened last year, Kai Kai was located inside of iFresh Supermarket, the Asian market on the corner of East Colonial and Bumby Avenue (next door to Chicken Fire and Lam’s Garden!), but since then, Meng’s Kitchen has moved into the former Kai Kai space inside iFresh Market.

I swear I’m going to move on, but I feel the need to say that Kai Kai is not to be confused with Michelin-recommended Kai Asian Street Fare, one of my favorite restaurants in the Orlando area (just over the Casselberry border in Winter Park).  Everybody still with me?

Well, I dare you to walk up to Kai Kai and not be entranced and enthralled by the barbecued ducks and chickens hanging on display… unless you’re a vegetarian, that is.

I appreciate that they have photos of all their dishes on display.  I honestly wish more restaurants would do this.

Something else I appreciate about restaurants is when they offer some kind of sampler plate with two or three items to choose from so you can try a few things.  I will almost always choose this option, whether it’s an American barbecue joint or a Cantonese restaurant like Kai Kai.  If you order a “rice box,” you can choose two or three of the six house specialty meats.  I, of course, went with three meats, which only costs $2 more than the two-meat option, so it seems like a no-brainer.  I treated myself to roast duck, honey barbecue char siu pork, and soy sauce chicken (from top to bottom in the photo below).

The sliced meats are served over white rice with some garlicky sautéed bok choy, but you can pay a small upcharge for either fried rice or Hainanese garlic rice.  I chose the garlic rice, and I have zero regrets.  I strongly encourage my readers to do the same.  But look at this gorgeous plate of food!  It is huge and heavy, so much so that even *I*, chronic overeater that I am, easily got two and a half meals out of it.

Just because this is a feast for all the senses, including the eyes, here is a close-up of that lovely roast duck with crispy, crackly skin, and the tender, sweet, slightly sticky char siu pork beneath it:

And here is that soy sauce chicken, with lightly crispy skin as well.

They also offer honey barbecue chicken, honey barbecue ribs, and “crispy pork,” either in these rice boxes or by the pound or half-pound, but I feel like I made great choices.  I’ll have to try the ribs next time, though!

I also brought home an order of beef chow fun — chewy, wide, flat rice noodles (made from scratch by Jackie Lau herself!) wok-fried with tender sliced beef, onions, and green onions in a savory brown sauce.  Forgive me for not snapping a “noodle pull” pic, but I ate it too quickly.  This is one of my go-to dishes at any Chinese restaurant, especially as a way to evaluate places that are new to me.  If they have beef chow fun on the menu, I consider it a good sign, and if they do a good job of it, I feel more confident that anything else that comes out of the kitchen will be equally solid.

Spoiler alert: they did a great job of it.

On top of everything else, Kai Kai also serves Singapore rice noodles (another dish I love, the spicier the better), char siu pork lo mein noodles, young chow fried rice with shrimp, chicken, and pork, duck fried rice, and Chinese sausage fried rice, which I love so much that I will definitely try their version next time.  But that’s not all!  They also have an entire scratch-made dim sum menu featuring siu mai, multiple dumplings and bao buns, spicy Szechuan wings, and even cucumber salad (regular or spicy) that is probably super-refreshing to balance out all those heavy barbecued and roasted meats and fried noodle and rice dishes.

Obviously I enjoyed the food at Kai Kai, but I’m far from the only one.  The latest round of Florida Michelin awards were announced on Friday, April 5th, and Kai Kai received a vaunted Michelin recommendation, alongside its Mills Market neighbors UniGirl and Banh Mi Boy, which both received Bib Gourmand awards.  Congratulations go out to Jerry and Jackie Lau, who are absolutely killing it at Kai Kai.  I look forward to returning, but in the meantime, there is magic happening in the stall kitchens of Mills Market.    Whatever restauranteurs Johnny and Jimmy Tung of the Bento Group are doing to build their brands and spread the word, it is paying off!

UniGirl

UniGirl (https://www.unigirlfl.com/) is an whimsically named food stall in Orlando’s relatively new Asian food hall Mills Market, located inside the former Tien Hung market on East Colonial Drive between Mills and Thornton Avenues.  It is even more adorable when you learn on the website that it was named after chef/owner William Shen’s shiba inu, a super-cute Japanese dog breed that looks like a fox.  A cartoony shiba inu appears as the official mascot of the restaurant.

UniGirl specializes in onigiri, tasty triangles of lightly salted koshihikari Japanese short grain rice (nicely chewy and sticky; the same kind of rice used for sushi), molded with some kind of filling, sprinkled with furikake seasoning (diced roasted seaweed and sesame seeds), wrapped with a piece of roasted seaweed to use like a handle.  They are served warm and best enjoyed that way.  I first tried onigiri a few years back at Ramen Takagi, still my favorite ramen-ya in the Orlando area, but nobody else has focused on onigiri until UniGirl opened in November 2024.  I had some fun on my first visit very recently!

This was the refreshing “daily mocktail” — so perfect on an unseasonably hot day in early April.  It was a blend of calamansi and passion fruit juices and jasmine, served over crushed ice, which we can all agree is the best kind of ice.  Calamansi is a tart little citrus fruit, similar to lime, that is very popular in Filipino cuisine, and passion fruit is one of my favorite fruits and flavors in general.

I got an order of three fried oysters while I waited, which were fried to order and to perfection.  These were listed on a chalkboard as a konbini special, with konbini serving as an abbreviation of konbiniensu sutoru, or “convenience store.”  Japanese convenience stores are supposed to be truly special places, 24/7 paradises where weary shoppers can pick up a variety of premade, fresh, tasty grab-and-go foods that are quite good, not just reheated junk food thrown together from the lowest-quality ingredients.  Even the 7-Eleven chain, ubiquitous in Japan, is known for really great food and snacks, far more over there than they are here.

Just as an aside, I am obsessed with lemons.  Whenever I get a lemon wedge served with my seafood, I eat it whole, just like normal people would eat an orange slice.

Anyway, the creamy, cool, slightly herby dipping sauce worked well with the golden, crispy exterior and almost creamy oyster centers.  The fry guy warned me they would be boiling lava hot, so I might want to wait a little while once they came up.  That was wise advice.  About five minutes later, they were still hot, but no longer capable of burning my mouth.  Did you hear about the hipster who burnt his tongue?  He ate UniGirl’s fried oysters before they were cool!

On to the star of the show: the onigiri!  I brought four onigiri home with me, but they had more than that to choose from, all individually wrapped and labeled.

As you can see, all the perfect little onigiri look similar, so thank goodness their disposable outer wrappers are labeled.  Once I got home and opened them up, I made a note of which was which.

The tuna onigiri in the top left was more like tuna salad, mixed with mayo (probably the eggy Kewpie brand) and a bit of mustard, rather than the raw ahi tuna I always expect, like you get in sushi or poke.  The miso tan tan (spicy crumbled pork) in the top right had a lot of flavor, including some mild spice.

The unagi (eel) onigiri in the bottom left was by far my favorite.  It was sweet and savory, not fishy at all.  In the bottom right, mentaiko (Alaskan pollock roe, from a fish in the cod family) was salty and spicy, with a subtle umami quality.  I first tried mentaiko years ago at Susuru, another unique Japanese restaurant here in Orlando, where they served mentaiko fries.

Finally, UniGirl advertised potato-egg salad as anther konbini special on the Saturday I went, and I thought it would be a nice little treat, especially since I’m such a fan of delicatessen fare.  I find it comforting that the Japanese like potato and egg salads too, and of course their versions are excellent.

Everything from UniGirl was a real treat — savory Japanese snacks meant for comfort and convenience, but so different from the conventional, familiar landmarks of Japanese cuisine like sushi, ramen, and udon.  I’m definitely not the only fan, because just the other day, on April 17th, 2025, UniGirl was awarded a prestigious Michelin Bib Gourmand award for “good quality, good value cooking.”  That is a huge honor for Chef William Shen (who also got an interview feature on the tire company’s website), for UniGirl, for the Mills Market (which houses a few other Michelin award-winning food stalls… STAY TUNED, stalwart Saboscrivnerinos!), and for Orlando in general.

Bob’s Big Boy (Los Angeles)

Bob’s Big Boy (https://bobs.net/) is a legendary diner in Burbank, California, a Los Angeles suburb near the Warner Brothers and Disney studios.  First opened in 1949, Bob’s Big Boy is an iconic building designed by architect Wayne McAllister in the retro-futuristic “Googie” style that is virtually unknown here in Florida, but so popular in mid-20th Century L.A. diners, coffee shops, and gas stations.  Think of The Jetsons, or anything referred to as “space-age” or “atomic age,” back when the future seemed bright and exciting, guided by trust in science and faith in exploration.  I love that style for its timeless quality, while simultaneously being totally of its time (and of course before my time).

Bob’s Big Boy is named for its founder, Bob Wian, and for Richard Woodruff, a six-year-old boy who did odd jobs around the diner, who Bob called “Big Boy.”  The familiar restaurant mascot was inspired by Woodruff — a friendly corporate logo based on a heartwarming tale of child labor.

Inside, it looks like a classic mid-century coffee shop with a long counter surrounding the open kitchen, plus plenty of cushy booths along the side and in the back.  They have kept the restaurant looking clean and welcoming over the decades, which isn’t always the case at some of these old-school L.A. eateries.   

The Burbank location was the first of what would become a nationwide chain, but now there are random, assorted Big Boy restaurants scattered around the country.  My wife assures me there even used to be one in Orlando, but I was never aware of any in Miami, growing up down there in the ’80s.

But you can’t eat architecture or vibes, so what brought me way out of my way to this old-timey diner on my most recent work trip to L.A., a city renowned for excellent restaurants of all styles and price points?  I was paying homage to one of my all-time favorite creative individuals, the late, great filmmaker/writer/actor/musician/visual artist David Lynch, who passed away on January 16, 2025, four days shy of his 79th birthday.

Lynch might be best known as the co-creator of the beloved television series Twin Peaks, which ran for two seasons from 1990 to 1991, got a bizarre movie prequel (Twin Peaks: Fire Walk With Me) in 1992, and then returned in 2017 for a magnificent third season in 2017, reintroducing the surviving cast members, all of whom had aged considerably in the intervening years, alongside the man who dreamed it all up.  Twin Peaks, which combines a quirky small-town dramedy and a dark, twisty murder mystery is not for everyone, but it is near and dear to my heart.  He also wrote and directed the films Eraserhead, The Elephant Man, Dune (the first one, natch), Blue Velvet, Wild at Heart (an underrated classic with one of the greatest Nicolas Cage performances), The Straight Story (a rare G-rated Lynch movie that you can watch with your entire family), Lost Highway, Mulholland Drive (another one of my all-time favorite movies), and Inland Empire.

For many years, Lynch was a regular at the Bob’s Big Boy in Burbank, and he did so much writing over black coffee, chocolate milkshakes, and plates of fries.  The Bob’s Big Boy website even has a special Hall of Fame page for David Lynch, detailing his typical lunch order and explaining that as a creature of habit, he always liked to eat right at 2:30.  It quotes his book Catching the Big Fish: “I used to go to Bob’s Big Boy restaurant just about every day from the mid-seventies until the early eighties.  I’d have a milk shake and sit and think.  There’s a safety in thinking in a diner.  You can have your coffee or your milk shake, and you can go off into strange dark areas, and always come back to the safety of the diner.”

This was my first work trip to L.A. since Lynch had passed away, and I wanted to see where the magic had happened, to enjoy a meal in this humble diner he loved so much, that fueled his nonstop (and often nightmarish) creativity — maybe to feel a bit of the inspiration he felt.  Bob’s Big Boy was my last stop before going to the airport and heading home, and thanks to some lucky timing, I was able to have my lunch at 2:30 as well.

Unfortunately, I didn’t order Lynch’s lunch.  I am not a coffee drinker — it usually hits me hard, hours after drinking it, with a wave of intense acid reflux and the feeling of my heart wanting to jackhammer its way out of my body through my ribcage and fly around the room.  It is not a pleasant feeling, and that was the last thing I needed before a red-eye flight home.  Instead, I got a strawberry lemonade that was light and refreshing, with plenty of freshly sliced strawberries and that good kind of crushed ice.

A few things on the menu tempted me, but since this was my first visit to Bob’s Big Boy, and possibly my only visit ever, I went with a classic order: the “Original” Big Boy combo: their original Double-Deck hamburger with fries and a side salad.  The salad came out first.  My very kind server Rachael told me they are famous for their bleu cheese and ranch dressings, so I went with bleu cheese, a dressing I almost never get on a salad.  The salad was fine (iceberg lettuce, cucumbers, finely shredded cheddar cheese, and really firm croutons), but the bleu cheese dressing elevated it to something better than the sum of its parts.

I knew what to expect from the Original Double-Deck burger, but I was still a little surprised when it came out.  It had two burger patties with top, middle, and bottom sesame seed buns, cheese, lettuce, mayo and “special red relish.”  If that sounds mostly familiar, it’s because most of us have eaten a McDonald’s Big Mac at some point in our lives, or at least seen one or heard about them.  I did a bit of research, and it turns out the Big Mac was introduced by a McDonald’s franchisee in Pittsburgh in 1967 and became a nationwide product in 1968.  The franchisee, Michael James “Jim” Delligatti, used to manage a Big Boy, and that three-bun wonder surely made an impression on him, enough to rip it off.

That said, the red relish was delightfully tangy and zippy — kind of similar to Wickles Spicy Red Sandwich Spread (which includes jalapeño peppers and cucumbers), but not as spicy.  I probably would have preferred a chili cheeseburger (which old-school L.A. restaurants call a chili size), but I had to try the original, and it was what it was.

I know David Lynch appreciated his fries, especially at Bob’s Big Boy, but I can never settle for fries when onion rings are an option.  RING THE ALARM!  For a slight upcharge, I got onion rings in my combo, and they were okay.  These are breaded, and I always prefer battered onion rings.  But luckily for me and my readers (and unluckily for my body), I had better onion rings at two different restaurants on this same L.A. trip.

Rachael was sweet and kind enough to bring me little dipping cups of bleu cheese and ranch dressing to dip my onion rings, and the ranch was as good as the bleu cheese, if not better.  I never get ranch as a salad dressing or a dip, but maybe I would if all ranch was this good!  If you live out west, they actually sell Bob’s salad dressings at supermarkets, you lucky ducks.

Usually I like ketchup on burgers and onion rings, but I never even touched the ketchup at this meal, wanting to sample everything in its purest form.

Even though David Lynch favored chocolate milkshakes at Bob’s Big Boy, I know he was also very fond of pie.  The Double R Diner on Twin Peaks was famous for its cherry pie (and its gorgeous waitresses, always beset by dangerous, desperate men), but I noticed that fresh strawberry pie is a seasonal special on the Bob’s menu, and that sounded too good to pass up.  It was pretty much what you would expect a classic strawberry pie to be — not as good as Evette Rahman’s National Pie Championship-winning strawberry cheese pie at Sister Honey’s Bakery in Orlando, but nothing is.  Still, it hit the spot, and it was a generous serving.

Yes, there is some pie crust under there!

I admit that I ate pretty quickly because I had to grab a Lyft and make it from Burbank to LAX against unknowable afternoon traffic, but I got to my gate two hours before boarding, so all was well.  I had a good feeling I would be okay.  While I have eaten better, more memorable meals in Los Angeles — even on this same trip, which I will write about eventually — I have no regrets about making a pilgrimage to Bob’s Big Boy, to enjoy a tiny taste of classic Americana and retrace the steps of a weirdly wholesome creative genius who brought so much entertainment to my life.

I should have researched which booth David Lynch liked to sit in, but ultimately, that doesn’t matter.  The fact that he did so much writing at Bob’s Big Boy, leading to so many unforgettable movies and hours of television, was enough to get me in the door, and I’m so relieved I got that experience.  Even though I know he was recently buried in the Hollywood Forever Cemetery with a simple, mysterious grave marker that reads “Night Blooming Jasmine,” I would not have been surprised to see the man himself in a nearby booth, his gray pompadour gone white, his dress shirt buttoned all the way up to his neck, scribbling notes on a napkin.  I would have given him a thumbs-up like his Twin Peaks protagonist, Special Agent Dale Cooper, and he might have raised his cup of black coffee to me and said something charmingly cryptic to me in that great old-timey newsman-sounding voice of his, like “Keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.”

Gideon’s Bakehouse

Gideon’s Bakehouse (https://gideonsbakehouse.com/) serves some of the best cookies in Orlando, if not in all of Florida.  These are huge, heavy, rich cookies, ideally shared among two to four people.  You’ve never seen or tasted anything quite like them anywhere else, but almost a decade after opening, they still have a loyal fan following.  Read on to see why!

Steve Lewis opened the original Gideon’s location opened in 2016, in a small stall in the East End Market, a critically acclaimed and beloved local landmark in Orlando’s Audubon Park neighborhood.  Since then, a larger location opened in Disney Springs in 2020, where tourists apparently queue up for hours for their cookies and photo ops.  I admit I’ve never been to the Disney Springs location, not when the tiny original is so much closer and more convenient.  You may notice that Gideon’s Bakehouse has a creepy/kooky/mysterious/spooky aesthetic, kind of like Tim Burton-meets-Edward Gorey.  They include trading cards of all these cutesy, creepy, Funko Pop-looking characters that people probably go crazy collecting, even though I’ve never paid close attention to them.  Apparently the Disney Springs location has even more of a Victorian haunted house mise en scène going on, but I’ll leave that to the tourists and local Disney adults.   
I realize the books are just for show, especially since they have them displayed with the spines facing in rather than out.  As a librarian, this strikes me every time, and I say to myself “No human being would stack books like this.”

But Gideon’s goes hard with their theming, and they have a lovely glass curio cabinet (not just a simple display case!) showing off all their cookies:

Here are some of their pistachio toffee chocolate chip cookies on the upper level with some mysterious limited edition cookies below.  (They are always coming out with limited editions that don’t stick around for long, knowing their target audience feels those FOMO feelings.)

Here are some of their classic chocolate chips above, with triple chocolate chips below.   I should have mentioned this sooner, but all their cookies are very soft, moist, chewy, underbaked.  They melt in your mouth.  Your mileage may vary, but if I’m going to indulge with cookies, this is how I like them, not hard little crunchers that shatter into a dust storm of dry crumbs. 

Here are limited edition Kris Kringle cookies on display, which had to have been a holiday season thing.  I tried it once, and I was more into it than my wife, who is the real sweet tooth.

And here are just a few of the cookies I’ve brought home for my wife or shared with friends and co-workers over the years, starting with my wife’s favorite, the pistachio toffee chocolate chip.  Notice those crunchy salt crystals!  Gideon’s uses salt crystals a lot, as a way to cut the sweet richness (rich sweetness?) and add a bit of additional texture. 

Here was one of the many limited editions: a peanut butter cold brew cookie, inspired by their peanut butter nitro cold brew (which I’ve never tried, not being a coffee drinker.  They describe it as a peanut butter cookie laced with freshly ground decaf espresso and covered in chopped Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and Reese’s Pieces.  

This is their standard peanut butter crunch cookie, made with a dough that is mostly peanut butter and topped with peanut butter chips and handmade crunchy candied peanuts.

Here’s that aforementioned Kris Kringle with a peanut butter crunch and a pistachio toffee chocolate chip from a different visit.  It was a white chocolate chip cookie flavored with coconut, caramel, vanilla, and freshly ground coffee beans, adding a bit of bitterness to counterbalance all that rich sweetness (sweet richness?).  It also had a crunch from coarse sugar and those sea salt crystals.

I’m sure you waiting for this one: dig that classic chocolate chip, and look at all those chips!  I’m a reasonably large full-grown man, and I can only hold one of these cookies in my hand.  Then I have to wash it, because the entire surface is covered with gooey chocolate chips.

On my most recent trip, I brought a triple chocolate chip cookie home for my wife.  The website says they actually use five kinds of chocolate, including from high-end chocolatiers Callebaut and Ghirardelli.  They also pour their chocolate ganache straight into the cookie dough as they mix it, to obtain a velvety texture.  It seemed pretty intense, and so far I haven’t even tried a bite of this one.

The most recent limited edition cookie I got sent out for was a coffee cake cookie, exclusive to the Disney Springs location unless you preorder six cookies (any combination) online from the closer East End Market location.  My wife and I both love coffee cake, to the point where I baked her a coffee cake from scratch back in our early dating days just because she mentioned liking it.  You can call me a simp if it makes you feel better, but we have been together for 19 good years and married for almost 16, so we’re in it to win it and put in the work every day to be the best people we can for each other.   Anyway, this was one of my favorites: a buttery vanilla bean cookie filled with cinnamon streusel (the website said “Strudel,” but I’m guessing they meant streusel, since I’ve baked coffee cake from scratch) and topped with “Homemade Double Baked Butter Crumbs.”  Good lord, it was good.  But seriously, with any of these, you can easily cut them into quarters, and even a quarter is plenty.  Luckily, all these cookies freeze and thaw very well.

I still give the edge for soft, moist, chewy cookies to a small operation: HeartSong Cookies, owned and operated by one of the sweetest people ever, Kathy Paiva.  But Gideon’s Bakehouse is a big deal — an Orlando favorite that has garnered national attention, and now you can see why.  Despite not being a big cookie eater in general, I can’t disparage these cookies, nor would I want to.  If you like huge, hefty, hulking cookies, this is your place. And if you also like sad little cartoon monster children, mysterious books shelved backwards, and humming Danny Elfman movie scores while you enjoy your cookies, this is definitely your place.  Everyone is welcome at Gideon’s, from regular joes to goths to steampunks, who are goths that have discovered the color brown.

Oh yeah, and they sell slices of cake too!